Amazing Amalfi Coast
Bil and I are TRAVELERS, not tourists. We don’t have a specific allotted time for our travels.
Our adventures are nonstop. Our lifestyle is usually termed “Nomads.” What brings us the greatest joy is meeting new people from all over the world: locals and travelers alike. We love the smells and sounds and tastes that each day brings. Right now, I am typing while listening to church bells and a dozen chickens and roosters…and they have a LOT to say! There is also a gentleman in the valley who sings opera much of the day, bringing his soul lifting voice to our ears.
Susie managed to write that much before she got back to planning our next activities, which she is very good at. Looking ahead for our next destinations, what attractions might be nearby, available (and affordable!) lodging, and also how in the heck to get from here to there! While she is busy with that I am organizing photos and writing up our activities, some of which I post online and other material just to remember where we were and what we did all those years ago.
7/15/21 - We are now staying in a sweet place called the Happy House in Agerola, along the Amalfi Coast of Italy. The town is several Km inland from the coast and way up the steep mountainside, so we have a great view of the town and countryside below, and the sea in the distance. This place has a great kitchen so we have been getting groceries at the nearby market and making our meals at home – eating out on the porch with a stunning view.
One of the most famous hikes in Italy is the Il Sentiero degli Dei – “The Path of the Gods” – a rambling hike along a rocky path, affording panoramic views of the gorgeous coastline below, and rocky crags above. The houses and shops of the villages are sprinkled over the steep mountainside, many perched precariously on stilts. Amalfi is in the distance off to the east and Positano to the west - our destination.
Trekking from east to west, which we did, as Agerola is just uphill from the trailhead in Bomerano, is much easier and mostly downhill, ending in Nocelle. We started early and made a leisurely but steady walk, stopping frequently to soak in the vistas – and take many photos. Not many hikes out which was great – during busy (normal pre-Covid) times it can be like hiking Diamond Head in Hawaii – steady stream of people.
Once you reach the end of the path in Nocelle, you are still many meters above sea level.
You can descend down the picturesque stairs to Positano or take a bus or car down or return home. We choose to walk on down – how hard could it be? Ugh. Wrong answer!
Various sources report there are about 1,000, 1,700 or 2,000 steps. Susie started counting but gave up quickly. We stopped for gelato after 15 minutes, then proceeded downwards. By the time we reached the last third, we were both walking sidewise, one step at a time, as we each had a knee threatening to quit! We did make it – I believe it was more like 87,318 steps.
Positano is a beautiful, and expensive little seaside town, with many high-end shops and ristorantes. We found a “deli” and had sandwiches made and sat in the shade to recuperate and eat our lunch. Then we wound our way through the narrow streets to the beach and docks, where we caught a slow sightseeing boat to the town of Amalfi, enjoying the view of the spectacular coastline from an entirely different perspective. We made the acquaintance of Pam & Martin, a lovely couple from the UK who have been driving through Europe with Hugo, their doggie.
The next few days were more relaxed, as we enjoyed the small-town ambiance, walking around the hilly streets and walkways, going to the market and cooking delicious pasta & chicken. Our host had graciously left us a cookie assortment which had some scrumptious almond flavored ones. We tracked down the bakery, Party Place, which was run by a father & his two teenage boys. No signs….we found it by our noses! Very small shop – not really retail at all – but they were happy to sell us another batch of treats.
Another evening we met Pam, Martin & Hugo for a dinner at a close by ristorante. The cheerful & hustling proprietor suggested we get the especiale, which we did. 4 courses, plus wine 7 dessert, and it was very good. Also, very expensive! It’s ok – gotta spend a little more occasionally.
On our last morning I decided to take the drone down to a large overlook platform with expansive views of the area. We calculated there would be little traffic if I went very early, as probably not strictly legal to fly over populated areas. So, I left the house about 5:30 a.m. and hoofed it downhill to the deck – about 40 minutes and got some decent footage. Part of the hills were still in the shade.
Then I had to get right back as we were catching the SITA bus at 8:30 to get out of town. Sorry to leave this sweet little area, but once again it is time to move on. Get a train in Naples and cruise into the beautiful interior of Italy in the Tuscany region.
More Amalfi photos at: https://www.clickertreks.com/photos-italy
Amalfi videos here: https://www.clickertreks.com/videos